United Arab Emirates · 2022
Dubai on a budget: heat, couchsurfing hosts and a night on the beach
Dubai was the start of my 2022 Asia trip. I arrived with seven kilograms of hand luggage, a couchsurfing host and no plan. The first lesson came after thirty minutes outside: in Dubai you do not walk in 45 degrees.
Arriving with almost nothing
I flew from Vienna to Abu Dhabi and reached Dubai by bus. At the airport I bought a SIM card, and the seller insisted I needed 10 GB for four days when I wanted four. Compare the offers before you pay. A Czech girl on the bus, who wanted to coach tennis in Dubai, gave me the best tips for the metro and what to avoid.
Respect the heat
The next day I walked through the city centre at about 45 degrees in sock-shoes with my jacket wrapped around my head. My host laughed when I arrived: nobody walks outside in Dubai, because everybody uses a car or the metro. Take taxis or the metro, carry water and walk only early in the morning or late at night.
Metro and street sellers
The metro works well. When you come out you will meet sellers offering dates or water at very high prices. Agree on a price first or walk on. I also saw small cards with phone numbers on the pavement. A traveller warned me they lead to scams, so I ignored them.
Malls are the real public space
In a desert city, malls are where life happens: cafes, an ice rink and even a ski slope under one roof, all with air conditioning. I also paid about ten euros for a drink just to sit down and charge my phone, so pick your mall cafe carefully.
Couchsurfing in Dubai
I stayed with a host who lived in a quiet village among skyscrapers, practised tai chi in the garden and taught me about the neighbourhood cats. Another host was a business director with a big apartment. Hosts in Dubai come from everywhere, which makes the city easy to understand in two days. Read references, message first and be a good guest.
A city of extremes
I met people earning several thousand euros a month who said it was never enough, and a worker who earned a few hundred euros, shared a dormitory with six people and sent almost all his salary to India. Talking with locals and workers shows you a Dubai that the malls do not.
Sleeping on the beach: a warning
On my last night I slept in a small shelter on the beach because I did not want to pay for a hotel for a few hours. People warned me that sleeping on public beaches can lead to a fine. I was lucky. Do not copy me. Book a cheap bed or use the airport.
Private property
While walking through a park I entered the grounds of a hotel and a guard politely told me it was private property. Stay on public paths and ask if you are not sure.
Frequently asked questions
Can you walk in Dubai in summer?
I tried at about 45 degrees and it was a mistake. Use the metro, taxis and air-conditioned malls and walk only early or late.
Is Dubai possible on a backpacker budget?
Yes, with couchsurfing, the metro and cheap food, but prices are high compared with Southeast Asia.
Can you sleep on the beach in Dubai?
You can be fined for sleeping on public beaches. I did it once and was lucky, so I do not recommend it.