Malaysia and Vietnam · 2022
Tea trails: from Malaysia's Cameron Highlands to an old tea forest in Vietnam
I did not plan to become a tea geek. Then I picked leaves in the Cameron Highlands, dried them on a hostel roof and learned from a tea master in northern Vietnam that I had done everything wrong.
Cameron Highlands, Malaysia
The Cameron Highlands are a cool region of tea plantations, strawberry farms and jungle. I picked some tea leaves, fermented them in a plastic bag and dried them on the roof of my hostel in Kuala Lumpur. The tea tasted fine to me.
The tea master in Vietnam
When I told a tea master near Ha Giang in northern Vietnam what I had done, he almost killed me. He was roasting pu-erh when I arrived and showed me his collection of teas he had collected and made. He also ran a school for children with European volunteers.
Climbing a tea tree
We hiked into an ancient mountain forest where a local woman was picking leaves high in the crown of a tree. After a few instructions we climbed up too and picked leaves that were bright pale green in the light. At the family home we let the leaves wither for an hour before lunch.
Why visit tea country
Tea regions are slow, green and full of local life. Farm stays and tea tours let you meet families, see how tea is made and often cost very little. Ask your hostel about homestays and respectful visits.
Tips
Go in the dry season for walking. Wear shoes with grip, because plantation paths get slippery. Bring small cash and buy tea directly from the maker.
Frequently asked questions
Where can you visit tea plantations in Malaysia?
The Cameron Highlands has several plantations and strawberry farms that are open to visitors.
What is pu-erh tea?
Pu-erh is a fermented tea that originates in Yunnan, China. I saw a tea master roast what I believe was pu-erh near Ha Giang in northern Vietnam.
Can you pick tea leaves yourself?
On a farm visit or tour, often yes, if the family allows it.