Thailand
Backpacking Thailand: from Bangkok to Ko Phangan in two days
I landed in Bangkok knowing almost nothing about Thailand. Two days later I was on Ko Phangan, and I ended up staying three weeks. Here is the route and what I learned.
Arrival in Bangkok
At the airport I exchanged some money and bought a SIM card before leaving the terminal. It was about 10 pm when I used mobile data to find a backpacker area, Khao San Road, and took the metro towards it.
North or south?
The classic backpacker choice is north to Chiang Mai for mountains, cheap living and yoga, or south for islands and beaches. I chose the south.
The night bus to Koh Tao
On Khao San Road, backpackers were boarding buses to the Gulf islands. I found a driver, bought a ticket at an office 500 metres away and ran back just in time. The VIP bus journey took about nine hours with big seats, followed by a ferry to Koh Tao in the morning.
Small lesson: toilets
In many Thai toilets, including the one on my bus, you cannot flush toilet paper. Use the bin next to the toilet. I clogged the bus toilet a couple of times, and the driver was not happy.
Koh Tao: diving first
A fellow traveller told me Koh Tao is one of the best places in the world for scuba diving, and that it is mostly diving and partying. That is great if you want to dive, less so if you do not. I rented a scooter, explored the quieter side of the island and moved on.
Ko Phangan: why I stayed three weeks
I took the ferry to Ko Phangan on my second day in Thailand, rented a bike and booked an Airbnb. My plan was a few days. I stayed three weeks because of the sea view mornings, fresh fruit, a gym and sauna, yoga and workshops, and the people I met. At low tide you can walk up to two kilometres from the coast with water below your knees.
Full Moon Party
Ko Phangan is famous for the monthly Full Moon Party. I went once, and it was not for me, but many people love it. If you prefer quiet, stay away from the party area on those nights.
Leaving the island
I left because my visa was expiring. I took a ferry to the mainland, a bus to Surat Thani and then hitchhiked south towards the Malaysian border. Check your visa length before you fall in love with an island.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get from Bangkok to Koh Tao?
Take a night bus and ferry combination from Khao San Road. My VIP bus took about nine hours, followed by a ferry in the morning.
Is Ko Phangan only for parties?
No. Besides the Full Moon Party it has quiet beaches, yoga, gyms, jungle and a relaxed community, and many travellers stay for weeks.
Can you flush toilet paper in Thailand?
In many places you cannot. Use the bin provided unless a sign says otherwise.