Vietnam · 2022
Hanoi in two days: egg coffee, train street and why you test the brakes
Hanoi is a city to experience on foot and by motorbike, with coffee made from egg yolk and a street where the train passes a metre from your table. It also taught me to test the brakes.
Arriving at night
My bus dropped me on the street late at night. I took a Grab to my accommodation, a Vietnamese dormitory hosted by a couchsurfer who ran an English school. It was simple but welcoming. Later I stayed at a hostel that felt like a haven in the busy streets.
Egg coffee
Egg coffee is a Hanoi speciality: coffee topped with whipped egg yolk and sugar. It tastes like dessert. Try it in a small cafe in the old town.
Train street
On the famous train street, cafes sit along the tracks. When I visited there was no official entrance, and police were pretending to guard the main way in. A local took me through his house and I came out in his backyard on the street. Rules change, so ask locally, and always step far back when the train comes.
Note Cafe and temples
Between temples and landmarks I found the Note Cafe, with walls covered in written messages from visitors.
Uoc Le village by motorbike
I rented a worn motorbike with bad brakes for one day and drove an hour in the traffic, where lights seem to be optional. In Uoc Le, a village untouched by tourism, I was the only foreigner. I visited temples, a church and an incense farm.
Test the brakes
On the way back a truck cut across my path. I braked, but my brakes were not strong enough, and I hit the truck. The lesson is simple: do not rent a bike with weak brakes, check them before you leave and wear a helmet. Do not ride in Hanoi traffic unless you are confident.
Frequently asked questions
What is egg coffee?
Egg coffee is a Hanoi speciality made with whipped egg yolk, sugar and coffee.
Is it safe to rent a motorbike in Hanoi?
Traffic is chaotic. Rent only a bike with working brakes, wear a helmet and ride only if you are confident.
How do you get to train street in Hanoi?
Rules change, so ask locally. When I visited, a local led me through his home to the street.