Nepal · 2022
Kathmandu on foot: monasteries, singing bowls, a scam to avoid and a four dollar haircut
Kathmandu is loud and dusty, and it is one of the most interesting cities I have walked in. These are the places and lessons from my days on foot.
Start with a hilltop temple
I took a local bus to a temple on a hill. From the top you see the whole city, and you hear monks chanting and bells. The place is covered with prayer flags. Beware of monkeys: they are smart and will steal food.
Monasteries and monk schools
Walking down the other side I found a quiet monastery school, almost empty except for a cleaner and a few children chasing monkeys away. Monasteries use prayer wheels, which spin as you walk past and send out the mantras written inside. Go quietly, ask before taking photos and do not enter closed rooms.
The red dot scam
A man offered me a “present”: a red dot on my forehead and flowers behind my ear. Then he asked for money and became angry when I refused. If someone starts a free gift, say no thank you and keep walking.
Singing bowls and leather
Shops make Tibetan singing bowls by hand and sell leather goods in every street. Watch the makers, compare prices in three shops and bargain politely.
A haircut for four dollars
My favourite travel ritual is a local haircut. In Kathmandu it cost about four dollars and lasted an hour, with a head massage and a shave.
Do not trust one map app
My map app sent me into an industrial zone and then to a guesthouse that no longer existed. Local boys and a man on a motorbike helped me find a hotel in the centre. Carry an offline map and ask people.
Noise, plastic and rest
The city is noisy and polluted, and I saw rivers full of plastic. After two days I needed to leave for the mountains. Plan breaks, and do not try to see everything.
Frequently asked questions
What is the red dot scam in Kathmandu?
Someone offers a free blessing or gift, applies a red mark and flowers, then asks for money. Politely decline and walk away.
How much is a haircut in Kathmandu?
I paid about four dollars for a one-hour haircut with a massage and shave. Prices may have changed.
Is Kathmandu safe for walking?
I found it friendly, but traffic and pollution are heavy. Carry an offline map and be careful at night.