Nepal · 2022
Nepal for first-timers: 9 lessons from my first two weeks
I landed in Kathmandu with a flight to Everest Base Camp already booked and a 15-day plan. Almost nothing went to plan, and that is exactly why these lessons are useful.
Plan for the plan to change
My original idea was Everest Base Camp. The quickest route is a short flight to Lukla, a tiny sloped airstrip surrounded by mountains. I booked it, bought gear in Kathmandu, and then waited six hours at the airport before the flight was cancelled because of weather.
If your schedule is tight, build in buffer days for mountain flights. Cancellations for weather are normal, not unusual. I changed course and went to Langtang instead, which turned out to be a good decision.
Eat dal bhat
Dal bhat is rice with lentil soup, vegetables and sauces, and in the mountains refills are usually part of the deal. Nepalis say “Dal bhat power, 24 hour”. It is cheap, filling and easy to find on any trek.
Do not trust one map app
In the suburbs of Kathmandu my map app sent me into an industrial area and then to a guesthouse that no longer existed. Locals, including a group of kids and a man on a motorbike, got me back to the centre. Download an offline map, note the name of your hotel in Nepali if you can, and ask people.
Buses leave when they are full
There was no timetable on most of my rides. When I asked a driver when we would depart, the answer was “when the bus is full”. Expect long, bumpy, crowded rides: Kathmandu to Syabru Besi, the gateway to Langtang, took about seven hours at 20 to 30 km/h. Bring snacks, water and a bag you can keep on your lap.
Landslides stop roads, not people
On the way to Chitwan a landslide blocked the road and traffic stood still. People were crossing on a footbridge, some even with motorbikes. I got a lift from a young motorbike driver to the other side. Roads in the monsoon season can close for hours, so leave early and keep your plans flexible.
Be careful with street and highway food
I ate noodles at a roadside stop and got sick shortly after, and that illness ended my first Langtang trek. Pick busy places with fresh, hot food, and carry a water filter. I used a small Sawyer filter in the mountains. If you get sick, see a doctor or pharmacist rather than copying what I did.
Take a guided walk in Chitwan National Park
Chitwan is a very different Nepal: jungle, rivers and wildlife instead of snow. I did a two-day trip with a local agency, including kayaking and a guided walk where we saw rhinos from a safe distance. Always follow your guide. When he tells you to stand still, do exactly that.
Expect plastic and noise, and bring patience
Kathmandu is loud, crowded and often dirty, and I saw rivers full of plastic. Take a break in a quieter place, like a monastery area or a village, when you need it. Carry a reusable bottle and avoid adding to the waste.
Small costs are very small
A full haircut with a head massage cost me about four dollars, and a good hotel room in Chitwan was around eight to ten euros. Prices change, but daily costs are low compared with Europe.
Frequently asked questions
Is Nepal good for first-time backpackers?
Yes. It is cheap, welcoming and has easy trekking such as Langtang or Annapurna, but you should expect delays, crowded buses and changes of plan.
Do Lukla flights get cancelled?
Yes, mountain weather often cancels or delays flights to Lukla. I waited six hours before mine was cancelled, so keep spare days.
What is dal bhat?
Dal bhat is the national dish of Nepal: rice, lentil soup, vegetables and sauces, often with free refills in the mountains.