Nepal · 2022
Chitwan National Park: a guided jungle walk with rhinos, and why you stand still
After the cold of Langtang, Chitwan was a surprise: warm jungle, rivers and wildlife in the lowlands of Nepal. I booked a two-day trip with a local agency and saw rhinos from a few metres away.
Getting to Chitwan
From Kathmandu you can reach Chitwan by bus in a long day. My route was interrupted by a landslide, and I finished the journey on a young driver’s motorbike across a footbridge. I arrived at a good hotel room that cost about eight to ten euros.
Choose a local agency
I picked a small local agency from reviews and visited its office the same evening. It was off season, so there were few tourists and I got a good price. Compare two or three offers, ask what is included and book a guide, not only a ticket.
The guided walk
Walking in the jungle is only allowed with a guide. At one point we all froze in the elephant grass because something large was close. The guide whispered that if a bear came I should not run. It turned out to be an elephant, which our guide said is more dangerous to people in the area than tigers. Follow your guide and do exactly what he says.
Rhinos and watchtowers
We saw rhinos several times. One of them sprinted through the water not far from us, and you could feel the ground shake. We climbed lookout towers for views of the river. At the last one a slim black bear started to climb the tower, then turned back when it saw us. Never go up a tower alone, and keep your voice low.
Other wildlife
Eagles, deer, and sleepy elephant riders at the elephant tower. Bring binoculars if you can, and wear neutral colours.
Getting back
Public transport after dark was chaotic. I took a shuttle to a nearby city, then a van to Kathmandu that left only when it was full and arrived around 2 am. If your visa or schedule is tight, plan the return before you go.
Frequently asked questions
Can you walk in Chitwan National Park without a guide?
No. Walks in the jungle should be done with a licensed guide, and you should follow his instructions.
What wildlife can you see in Chitwan?
On my trip I saw rhinos, deer, eagles and a black bear. Tigers and elephants also live in the area.
Is Chitwan cheap?
A good hotel room cost me about eight to ten euros in the off season, and prices for tours depend on the season.